How work changed lunch
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This is the main kind of the hub of the building. So we've got big offices of 24 upwards on the right-hand side and then some more transient offices underneath the mezzanine. Then upstairs we've got our hot desks. So we have people who come in a couple of days a week and then some people who come in every single day. What do you eat at work? Where do you eat it? And who do you eat it with? This is The Food Chain from the BBC World Service. I'm Izzy Greenfield. Today we're talking about food in the workplace.

Over the years, lunch has evolved from the main meal of the day to a sandwich hastily eaten at our desk. So what do lunches around the world say about our work culture, our health and our priorities? And how busy is this usually? This is like a standard Wednesday. Heads down, working hard.

I'm being shown around an old brick warehouse building in the centre of Manchester in the north of England. This is the original flooring and if you can see here we've got the turnstiles. This building housed all the cigarettes that came into Manchester. So that's the bonded warehouse and you can see in the turnstiles where the train would come into the side of the building and these huge turnstiles on the floor would be what turned the train around. Today it's an office block housing lots of different companies and people using co-working spaces.

I'm here to find out what they all eat for lunch. This is the main member entrance and customer entrance, which leads you directly into the cafe. So we like the cafe to be open for members, obviously they can get the discount, but it's also open to the public. There's a fridge here with various drinks in. We've got salmon bagel, chicken pesto salad, the cheese toast is sold out.

rosemary bacon balm rosemary sausage balm and then various baked goods are you in a meeting can I interrupt your whatever you're doing are you sure yeah so what's your name Scott Scott nice to meet you I'm Izzy so have you had your lunch today Scott I've just eaten my lunch yeah I had a chicken and mozzarella baguette and

And did you buy that from the cafe here? I did, yeah. I was running late so I didn't have time to pick something off at home. I'm pretty good at meal prepping and bringing with me but yeah, a bit late today. What do you normally eat for your lunch, Scott? Normally I have some chicken, tuna, some lean protein, the packet microwave rice or something like that. How long have you been eating that same lunch for? About two years. I've

I have the same breakfast as well each day. It's just one less thing to think about. I've got a cappuccino and the cinnamon bun. I have a hot chocolate and a pan of raisin. Lovely. And so we are approaching lunchtime. Are you going to have lunch as well? Yes, I have brought my lunch with me. It was my dinner last night. It was gnocchi. It just was quite expensive to buy lunch around here. And what about you, Emily? So I'm visiting and I'm in meetings until sort of early afternoon, so I don't

have not thought about lunch. This will tide me over and then I'll probably just see how hungry I am before dinner. My name's Alistair. So I have just bought a chicken salad from the cafe. Looks on the face of it to be a very healthy option. My special, you know, everyone has like requirements and things, but I'm type 1 diabetic, so eating for me is complicated and it's either...

I find things with carbs, I inject myself, I wait 15 minutes and I eat. But as I'm eating with colleagues, this has got no carbs in so I can eat it straight away. I work from home four days a week, so four days are really easy. And then one day involves a bit of thought. Well, I'm glad it worked out today. Enjoy the chicken salad.

As Alistair goes off to enjoy his lunch, we continue our tour. Abigail Gunning is the Operations Director of Department, the company that runs this and other office buildings in Manchester and Leeds.

We've got a variety of businesses. We've got tech companies, we've got recruitment, we've got social media companies. We've even got a full radio station in the basement. So we just walked through the restaurant that's about to open here. You've got a cafe upstairs too. Does a lot of your revenue come from the cafe that's based here? And if so, how much of that?

It's not a huge percentage at all really. We just see it as an additional asset. We see it as just a nice to have. It's just something where we feel the need to have it as something in the building to get as an added benefit almost.

So our members get 20% off. We have recently upped the discount. We've seen a lot of price raises recently with all the uplifts, so we wanted to make sure they're still affordable and people still could use the coffee shop as and when they wish to. And since you've increased the discount, have you noticed that more people are staying in here for lunch?

Yeah, definitely. As much as we're open to the public, it's the members who are the people we really want to make sure are happy and want to stay in the building. This is going to be the restaurant that's going to reopen, isn't it? Tell me a bit about this space. So this space we're going to open next year in January. We're going to have an all-day dining experience so the public can come down or our members can just come for a meet-up with their colleagues, get some avocado and toast. They'll be able to stay for lunch if they want.

or come for a drink after work for a nice glass of wine. And this again will have that member discount. You'd opened it previously. What happened? Why did you choose to close it? I think we opened it maybe slightly prematurely. We thought we had a great concept, but then the actual people coming to the restaurant were just the members.

The whole district in this side of Manchester is now much more lively. There's a lot more footfall for other local businesses. We've got a lot more people in the district, so we find it might be a good time to reopen as we can have the public side of the business open now as well. So presumably that will be an additional source of revenue for the company?

Yeah, definitely. And that's the idea. I think previously it wasn't sustainable to be open all day with just the members for the building. But once we can have that public footfall, that'll make it a nice steady income for us. The idea of opening up workplace food facilities to the public isn't new. In Germany, visitors can dine in office blocks and even government buildings. Our reporter James Jackson has been to the Nordic Embassy in Berlin, where five nations share a building.

So I just got to the Nordic Canteen and I have been greeted by Kenneth, who's the manager. It looks very stylish, doesn't it? Yeah, it's very Nordic, clean. Minimalism. Yeah. And the people who are eating here now, are they staff? Yeah, this is the staff from the embassy in the Nordic countries. So they're having lunchtime now. Okay. And maybe you can show me around. Yeah. A little bit. Yeah. So we have the like...

Why do you open it to the public? I mean, it's an embassy building. So in some sense, you'd expect it to be quite high security, maybe quite exclusive, right?

Yeah, but I think it's important to show the people our food from the Nordic countries and to show that we have this like all the culture. Every day we have fish of the menu. Every day we have vegetarian and meat, of course, but fish is so the main dish we have.

Everything is homemade, but you pay like 9, 10 euros. As more people are working from home, did the pandemic change things? Yeah, we have like 100 guests less because of the home office working, of course. So there's like, our business is not so good.

Friday is very low business, but now we have this anniversary, 25 years, so it was in the newspaper and all over in the television, and so we have this week very busy. Great, let's have a look at what's on the menu today, if that's okay. So today we have the Pollock into Pura, herbs fried in teriyaki sauce with rice and broccoli.

I've just had the first bite and it's really good honestly, especially for canteen food.

And then this is your canteen every day? Every day. I work here, so every day, yes. You don't want to go somewhere else? No, why would I? Okay, what keeps bringing you back here? It's really good to get good, healthy food here. I think there's always a good range of different kinds. Somehow at home I don't get to cook that much fish, so I eat a lot of fish here. You know, we see the Nordic colleagues and we kind of have a nice chat and that's kind of a good social place as well, I think. Yeah.

Great. Thanks very much. Thank you. We're from the Norwegian Embassy. Norwegian Embassy. Okay. And do you come here every day? Most days. Some of us. Some of us. Yeah. What keeps you coming here? Do you think it's important to have a canteen in a workplace? Absolutely. Yeah. Very important. Yeah, it's good. It's also good for us as we're five people.

co-located that we meet here sometimes and the food is good most times my question is what will happen from now on because a couple of days ago we had the president Steinmeier announced from the microphone that this was one of the better canteens in Berlin so if people were paying attention we could be seeing a lot more of that from now on I think

It's just one minute before one when it opens to the public and a huge group of people has just walked through speaking German. Why have so many people coming here? Why have you come here today? Well, I've heard it through the radio.

It's open and it's kind of a fun new experience. I mean, it's an embassy and eating at an embassy is quite special for me. So it's interesting. And then I read that they would be offering today lasagna and I was just curious how it would taste. And do you work around here? Well, yeah. I mean, I study at the Humboldt University, so it's quite close. I mean, for Berlin... It's about 20 minutes away. Yeah, so normal. Yeah. And this is your first time here? First time, yes.

James Jackson reporting from Berlin. From Germany's democratic canteen culture to midday siestas in Spain, lunchtime traditions across the world reflect culture and history. It's really the first meal that humans ate was probably lunch. So it was something that they had to kind of work up to. They would have to get up in the morning and eat.

gather the fuel, gather the stuff, do the cooking before they could eat anything. Historian Megan Elias is director of the food studies program at Boston University in the US. She wrote a book called Lunch, the History of a Meal. I asked her about the origins of the lunch break. The lunch break that we know of today, kind of the official lunch break, really comes with the Industrial Revolution. So the era of

the standardization of making things and time becomes sort of the property of the factory owner. There's never an attempt to go without lunch. So work days were very, very long, you know, 10, 12 hours in factories in the beginning. But there was always a break. Workers and employers argued about when the break should be.

So employers trying to push it as far back as possible, workers want it earlier, workers want it longer. It's really going to change what people eat as well. They have to think of something that they can eat quickly.

There's a sense of kind of a rush to lunch that didn't exist before. So you're going to see people certainly not being able to go home to have their lunch. And what happens then is a kind of whole world of lunch providers emerges. And these are people who come up with foods that can be eaten quickly and that can be cheap and satisfying.

So things like sandwiches become really, really useful in this time period. What other foods were made, adapted to help people work and to help people in a busy lifestyle?

Yeah, I think probably the most famous of those are pasties or an empanada that's a bit of dough with something inside of it. You can think of samosas too, things that can be grabbed and eaten in the hand quickly, but that are warm inside and full of flavor. Maybe that's what I'll have for lunch. It's very appealing just talking about it.

But those are the kinds of things that, you know, may have existed before but are especially useful for lunch when lunch has a limited amount of time. A lot of people, when they think of a lunch break at work, will conjure up the image of a canteen or a cafeteria space. When did employers first start making those for people? Some factories had them, but they're more common in the kind of white-collar workplace now.

where there's an idea that you want to keep everybody working, so you want to keep them inside the building. If you supply a canteen, that means that the staff is going to stay on site and you don't lose them to the interesting world outside when they go out to get lunch. This is a 20th century phenomenon, really specifically in the US, when we begin to see the development of office parks here.

these areas that are away from, you know, any sort of central part of a city or a town. They're just office buildings. And there, you know, you still have the ability to socialize and you'd have a kind of a

a choice, but it's a choice that's predetermined by whatever company you work for. On the one hand, you're, you know, the company is saying, oh, we care about you, we're feeding you. But on the other hand, they become kind of parental to you, you're tied to their sense of what is a good lunch. And how has the rise of office culture in the 20th century impacted the lunch break? It's really recently gone through a very big change. So

Through the 70s, 80s, and 90s, there was an emergence of restaurants that catered specifically to lunch crowds. Their understanding that people don't have a lot of time, work culture really shifted in that period to really even more away from a leisurely time to almost not existing, to just you're going to eat lunch, it's going to be in the middle of the day, but you may not even step outside, you may not step away from your desk.

The things that eventually get called sad desk lunches, right? People no longer even going into the coffee room where they work and sitting down, but just taking something out at their desk and eating it. And those kinds of things, again, they have to be quick. They have to be something that you don't need a fork and knife for. So again, that's like,

The needs of the work itself shape what people are going to eat. Now, a lot of this changed with the pandemic. A lot of places that just do lunch are really struggling or places that have lots of outlets in downtown urban areas are struggling because the lunch trade isn't five days a week anymore. More people work from home a couple of days. You're listening to The Food Chain from the BBC World Service.

World of Secrets is where untold stories are exposed. And in this new series, we investigate the dark side of the wellness industry, following the story of a woman who joined a yoga school only to uncover a world she never expected. I feel that I have no other choice. The only thing I can do is to speak about this. Where the hope of spiritual breakthroughs leaves people vulnerable to exploitation. You just get sucked in.

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I'm Izzy Greenfield. This week, how our work changed lunch.

In today's workplaces, with budgets tighter than ever, many offices can no longer afford to operate an in-house food service. We asked people on our World Service Facebook page what they've been eating at lunchtime. Denise Williams in the US works for an insurance company. She told us that her options are more limited than ever.

The only options we have for food in my workplace come from a vending machine filled once a week, and there's usually two salads put in. So those have to last for the week. So whoever gets them first gets them, and everybody else is left with what's available. Most of the options are not healthy.

What I do is the night before when I'm making my dinner, I make enough to have leftovers to bring for lunch the following day. This week I brought some chicken and I brought some ravioli. I would like to see a working cafeteria. As a matter of fact, there used to be a working cafeteria until COVID.

When people started working from home and there weren't enough people in the office, then they closed down the cafeteria. And now people are back to work on site, but they just never opened the cafeteria back up.

Fabrizio Bucci lives and works in Tuscany, Italy, and faces a similar problem. Despite the fact that we are a relatively large company, we are around 80 people, we don't have a canteen. That's why I prepare my meal on a daily basis. We have here in the office the facility, there are microwave ovens,

ovens and tables etc to warm up and heat your meal but usually I don't share the same space because I have my meal in my desk here in my opinion it's more comfortable than the the common room for meal what's your favorite lunch to make to bring into work

My favourite absolutely is basmati rice with chickpeas and the Brussels sprouts, steamed Brussels sprouts. I love them. Historian Megan Elias says the microwave opened up a whole world of lunchtime options, but that can cause friction. Bringing in microwaves into corporate lunch areas is

That allows people to bring something from home. So that's going to be something that helps people save money. Also stay connected to themselves in a way, right? If it's something that you cooked, it's your food. Maybe it's specific to your culture. You bring that part of yourself into the break room. When you bring something in a Tupperware, you're really bringing yourself in. And sometimes that causes conflicts, right? Sometimes people don't like the smells of other people's lunches. So there can be a little bit of a kind of

xenophobia at play in break rooms. Do you think people make a conscious effort in what they're preparing for lunch because they know that their colleagues are going to see it? I think sometimes people do. Yes. You know, I know where I work. I work around people who are really talented. And I'm embarrassed to bring sometimes something really not very fancy. You can feel judged, right? Or you can imagine that you're being judged on what you eat. There's

many, many stories of children from immigrant families in schools feeling like when they eat the lunch of their home country that they're being harassed by other kids for their lunch. And that doesn't kind of stop. That feeling that you're going to be judged for your lunch doesn't stop when you get out of school.

Megan says you can see our lunches evolve along with social change the world over. So if you think about the nice long lunches that you find in kind of southern Europe, still I think even now, that kind of time. So really acknowledging that the middle of the day is the hottest part of the day. So you stop, you

You have lunch, you have a nap. I mean, I've been hearing that there's a little bit of change, that there's more, that the kind of Northern European idea of work, work, work all the time is kind of infiltrating in more cultures, which is, you know, probably a pity. Certainly air conditioning changes these things. So if you know, if it's not really hot in the middle of the day anymore, because you can air condition yourself,

office space, then there's not really that need to go and kind of hide out for the hot part of the day. There's the culture of the tiffin. And I understand that's really changing now too, that because tiffins, which are the lunchboxes that get delivered straight from homes in India to offices in India through a really complicated system,

Because more women are in the workforce now, there are fewer women at home making the tiffins to send to the men working in offices. So now, you know, restaurants are sort of taking up the slack on that. So it's a shift that comes because of women's expanded employment and women themselves are going to have to be thinking about what is my lunch, right? There's nobody at home making a tiffin for me. Why do you think lunch is...

is a particularly interesting meal to observe? Because it's public, right? So it is the meal that people most often eat away from home. It's also a performance. It's something that your co-workers see or that people out on the street like creepy food historians like me see. It's really a thing that you do for yourself, right? But out in public.

So are you usually in a working environment where you can observe everybody's lunch? And are you making a mental note of that? Or are you even writing it down? How does it work? I don't write it down. But yes, I do make a mental note. When I'm doing research, I work near a large park and I go and I wander around at lunchtime. I'll have my thing and then I just go for a stroll to see what everybody else is having.

You know, I try to be unobtrusive about it, but it's interesting. You know, you do see changes over time. So for you, working from home is maybe a sad thing because people are eating lunch in their privacy of their home and you can't see it. Exactly. Exactly. Yeah. I mean, I enjoy making my own lunch. That's really fun. But yeah, they're hiding all the data from me.

And the data is important. What we eat at work impacts productivity, mood and morale. It has the power to change a business. Employers should take note. So says Olivia Beck, a registered nutritionist with a consultancy called Food Choice at Work in Cork, Ireland. So we're a team of registered nutrition dietitians and we work in partnerships with local and global organisations and we really work to tailor their nutritional health programmes according to the needs of their organisation.

So since COVID, we've really tried hard to adapt our offering for all workplaces where the employees are working on site from home or both. And we aim to support all employees equally. And the workplace has been recognized by the World Health Organization as a priority environment to influence dietary behaviors, given that individuals can spend up to two thirds of their waking hours at work.

Olivia's company conducted a study with 850 employees comparing different interventions in four manufacturing workplaces in Ireland over the course of nine months. In the food choice at work study, we compared the effectiveness of different interventions, one of them being environmental dietary modifications.

So these included modifying menus and design of the canteen, portion sizes, availability of healthier meals, proximity, for example, removing the salt off individual tables and providing access to fruit, priming, which included adding jugs of water to tables so employees are more likely to drink water. And this is a type of approach seen in research to really nudge employees

to make and influence their overall dietary behaviours. And whose responsibility is it to provide a healthy food, a healthy environment? Is that individuals or is that the employers? I would say that it's everybody's responsibility. Employers...

have the responsibility to ensure that they provide a healthy workplace, food environment if the employees are in work. And of course, if they're working from home, it's harder, but they need to lean in and support them with their food environment as well.

And ensuring that, I suppose, the work structure allows them to take regular water, food and movement breaks as well, right? Because when we're at home, it's so easy to jump from one Zoom or Teams call to another. Why should employers care about this? Does it make any difference to them financially? Yeah.

Yes, well, we saw in our cost effectiveness study, we found that our environmental intervention was actually the most effective in regard to reducing absenteeism. So I think it was by half a day per year within a 500 person workplace.

And employees expect more than a good wage these days, you know. Employees want employers to support them to feel well. And if employers are significantly investing in the employee's health and well-being, employees are more likely to stay with that employer. And we're seeing it now. Olivia, we recently hosted a work bake-off. So we encouraged colleagues to make different kinds of cake and bring them in to judge them.

I was crowned champion for my chocolate brownies, if I do say so myself. Well done. Thank you. Should we feel bad about bringing cake in or unhealthier foods or are there benefits to that kind of thing? There are absolutely benefits. Like, you know, bringing communities together is so important, particularly

particularly teams and particularly when we're working in a hybrid model where it might be a couple of weeks before we actually see some people and online is not the same as that kind of in-person interaction. And of course, you know, celebrating somebody's birthday, you know, you can bring in something that you can all share and make it a bit fun. I think all of that is so important. So we shouldn't be

a all or nothing approach, but actually I'll have a bit of fruit and then I'll have a small piece of cake because, you know, it's important for me to celebrate with this person or for me to taste Izzy's brownies. So I don't think that, you know, we should feel bad as an individual to bring in something because it's coming from a good place.

And then it's ultimately up to each employee to make that choice themselves based on what's on offer and what their own nutrition goals are. So it's OK that I'm making more brownies sometimes, but sometimes I might want to try and make a healthier brownie.

alternative for colleagues. Is there anything you suggest that I could try? Our protein balls and our energy balls are very, very popular and people are often very surprised at how easy they are to make and how delicious they are as well. And so it has oats, which we know is a slow-releasing complex carbohydrate.

it has some dates which we soak and then blend and it comes into like a lovely caramelized type of paste so that gives us the sweetness but we know dates are full of fiber and minerals and then we put in cocoa powder which is the chocolate powder without the sugar smells good but it's very bitter but it will mix in with the dates to create that kind of chocolatey taste

Sounds delicious. I'm going to give them a go and I'll let you know what everybody thinks. Brilliant. Yes, do, absolutely. Armed with Olivia's recipe, I whip up a batch of energy balls and take them into the office for my colleagues to try. Would you like to try one of these energy balls, Sam? It's quarter to three in the afternoon, so everyone needs a little bit of an energy boost at this time, don't they? Well, you're in luck. How do you think they look? I mean...

They look all right, don't they? I mean, I wouldn't say that I'd want to buy one like that. Take your pick. Could I have that little one there? Yeah, you can. Just in case it turns out to be horrible. Oh, yes, very nice. I know that it's better for you than a chocolate brownie, which is what I'd usually make. Which would you prefer? I'd probably prefer this because sometimes I get scared when I'm working that the sugar boost...

sends me a bit loopy and I'm trying to concentrate so I try and keep my sugar as balanced as possible which isn't always easy when people bring in lots of treats so this is a much healthier treat so for that I'm grateful but I think you need to practice a bit more.

Hi there, James. Can I interrupt your work for a second? Yes. I thought I would make something a little bit healthier for my colleagues today, so I've got some energy balls here. Would you like to try one? Well, not really, but I will if you want me to. Yeah, why don't you give it a go? It's quite nice. I'm quite impressed with that, actually. Unfortunately, my desk...

is directly next to the place that you have to put all the chocolates. So it takes an extraordinary amount of willpower for me to not have any of them. And, of course, I fail that every single day. So I appreciate the healthy chance, even if I'd rather have the brownie. OK, so there are actually only four left. Well, I've forced everyone to eat them. Blimey, they're huge. You can break one up if you'd like. Can I have half of one? Yeah, of course.

Mmm, good. I like it. Good combo. I like the coconut and the dates. It does taste quite sweet, which is nice. Would you be open to more options like this? I would be open to you bringing them in every day. Does it frustrate you when people bring in unhealthier foods? Not really. I just eat them anyway. Mark's out of ten for the energy ball. I'll give it eight and a half. Crikey. Now, usually I make a chocolate brownie. What do you give those? About eleven.

It seems my colleagues will eat just about anything if it's sitting on the edge of their desk. Thanks to them and to all of our contributors in today's programme. Have changes in your workplace impacted what you eat for lunch? Let us know by emailing thefoodchain at bbc.co.uk. From me and producer Beatrice Pickup, thanks for listening and join us again next week. When you're young, it feels like anything is possible. Maybe you're a little hot-headed, but your optimism lifts you up.

And your righteous fury can be rocket fuel, propelling you to fight for what's right. You might make choices that put you in danger. You might even make history. I'm Nicola Coughlan. This is History's Youngest Heroes. Rebellion, risk and the radical power of youth. Being young, maybe she didn't think too much. She thought, right, I'll just do it. She thought about others rather than herself.

12 stories of extraordinary young people from across history. There's a real sense of urgency in them. That resistance has to be mounted, it has to be mounted now. Including a young man called Nelson Mandela.

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Leading her troops astride a horse, sword in each hand, taking on the might of the entire British Empire. History is lit up by young people who act on instinct and stick to their principles. Like Julian of Norwich, one of the first women to write in the English language. A trailblazer.

Why would somebody choose to have themselves blocked up into a tiny little cell with limited contact with the outside world, out of choice? And Lady Jane Grey, queen for nine days, who refused to give up her faith and chose to face the executioner's axe. You have someone who is guilty

knowingly risking death and then ultimately knowingly taking death because there is something that matters more to them than their life itself and that's a fundamentally heroic position. These are tales of saints, athletes, Hollywood superstars and pioneers. Some heroes are household names, some have been all but forgotten.

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