A good butter starts with high-quality cream from grass-fed cows, which gives it a rich, buttery yellow color and smooth texture. Grass-fed butter has a superior flavor, often with nutty or grassy notes, while grain-fed butter tends to be pale, crumbly, and less flavorful. Lower-quality butters may include added natural flavorings to compensate for the lack of taste.
European butters are superior because they are typically made from grass-fed cows, which produce richer, more flavorful milk. They also have a slightly lower water content, making them smoother and richer. Additionally, some European butters, like Isigny Ste Mère, are cultured, meaning the cream is fermented before churning, adding a subtle tang and complexity to the flavor.
Cultured butter is made by fermenting the cream for 24 to 48 hours before churning, which adds a slight tang and complexity to the flavor. Non-cultured butter is made directly from fresh cream without fermentation, resulting in a more straightforward, creamy taste. Cultured butter is particularly popular in Europe and offers a more nuanced flavor profile.
Trader Joe’s European-style cultured butter is a cost-effective option at $4.70 for two sticks. For bulk baking, Costco’s Kirkland Signature unsalted butter is a great deal, offering four pounds for under $10. Their grass-fed salted butter is also a good value at around $11 for four blocks (equivalent to eight sticks).
The taste test involved 17 butters, divided into salted (for eating) and unsalted (for baking) categories. Butters were tasted cold and at room temperature on sourdough and potato bread to assess spreadability and flavor. They were also tested in cooked noodles and baked goods like shortbread and pie crusts to evaluate performance in different applications.
For fruit pie, Kerrygold is recommended. Isigny Ste Mère is ideal for butter on bread and brown butter noodles. Kirkland unsalted butter is great for bulk baking, such as Christmas cookies and buttercream frosting. Vegan butter is suggested for baking for someone you dislike, as it doesn’t perform as well as traditional butter.
Butter can be stored on the counter using a butter bell, which keeps it fresh by preventing contact with air. However, in hot environments, it should be refrigerated to avoid rancidity. For long-term storage, butter can be frozen. If refrigerated, it should be kept in an airtight container to prevent absorption of strong odors from other foods.
Key takeaways include the importance of grass-fed butter for superior flavor and texture, the unique qualities of cultured butter, and the value of European butters. The color of butter can indicate quality, with a rich yellow hue often coming from grass-fed cows. Vegan butters, while improved, still don’t fully replicate the performance of traditional butter.
Few ingredients are as loved (and villainized) as butter. We discuss how to pick a great butter, and the best ones for eating, cooking, and baking.
Guest: Wirecutter staff writer Lesley Stockton
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Find edited transcripts for each episode here: The Wirecutter Show Podcast)