cover of episode Let's Go To Butter School

Let's Go To Butter School

2024/11/20
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The Wirecutter Show

People
C
Christine Cyr-Claisset
K
Kyra Blackwell
共同主持《The Wirecutter Show》,提供日常产品的专家建议。
L
Lesley Stockton
R
Rosie Guerin
Topics
Lesley Stockton: 优质黄油的关键在于奶牛的饮食。吃草的奶牛产出的黄油颜色更黄,质地更顺滑,风味更浓郁,有时甚至带有青草或牧场的味道。而吃谷物的奶牛产出的黄油颜色浅,质地较硬,味道寡淡,通常需要添加人工调味剂。欧洲黄油通常比美国黄油好,因为欧洲奶牛通常吃草。法国流行的cultured butter是将奶油发酵24-48小时后制成的,这赋予了黄油独特的风味。 在黄油的测试中,我们测试了冷藏和室温下涂抹在面包上的口感,以及煮熟的面条中黄油的乳化效果和风味。烘焙黄油的测试包括制作酥饼和派皮。派皮的测试方法是先将派皮烘烤至干燥,再进行品尝。 不同类型的黄油适合不同的菜肴。例如,Kerrygold黄油适合制作水果派,Isigny Ste Mère黄油适合涂抹在面包上和制作黄油意面,Kirkland无盐黄油适合制作曲奇和奶油霜。选择黄油时,应优先选择草饲牛奶制成的黄油,如有条件,可以选择cultured butter。应避免选择添加人工调味剂的黄油。储存黄油时,可以使用黄油钟或密封容器,并注意避免与气味强烈的食物放在一起。 Christine Cyr-Claisset: 我个人认为植物黄油无法与传统黄油相比。 Kyra Blackwell: 黄油的颜色可以反映黄油的质量。欧洲黄油的质量普遍高于美国黄油。 Rosie Guerin: 黄油的味道会受到奶牛饮食的影响。cultured butter的风味独特。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

What makes a good butter versus a bad butter?

A good butter starts with high-quality cream from grass-fed cows, which gives it a rich, buttery yellow color and smooth texture. Grass-fed butter has a superior flavor, often with nutty or grassy notes, while grain-fed butter tends to be pale, crumbly, and less flavorful. Lower-quality butters may include added natural flavorings to compensate for the lack of taste.

Why are European butters often considered superior?

European butters are superior because they are typically made from grass-fed cows, which produce richer, more flavorful milk. They also have a slightly lower water content, making them smoother and richer. Additionally, some European butters, like Isigny Ste Mère, are cultured, meaning the cream is fermented before churning, adding a subtle tang and complexity to the flavor.

What is the difference between cultured and non-cultured butter?

Cultured butter is made by fermenting the cream for 24 to 48 hours before churning, which adds a slight tang and complexity to the flavor. Non-cultured butter is made directly from fresh cream without fermentation, resulting in a more straightforward, creamy taste. Cultured butter is particularly popular in Europe and offers a more nuanced flavor profile.

What are some affordable options for high-quality butter?

Trader Joe’s European-style cultured butter is a cost-effective option at $4.70 for two sticks. For bulk baking, Costco’s Kirkland Signature unsalted butter is a great deal, offering four pounds for under $10. Their grass-fed salted butter is also a good value at around $11 for four blocks (equivalent to eight sticks).

How was the butter taste test conducted?

The taste test involved 17 butters, divided into salted (for eating) and unsalted (for baking) categories. Butters were tasted cold and at room temperature on sourdough and potato bread to assess spreadability and flavor. They were also tested in cooked noodles and baked goods like shortbread and pie crusts to evaluate performance in different applications.

What are the best butters for specific uses?

For fruit pie, Kerrygold is recommended. Isigny Ste Mère is ideal for butter on bread and brown butter noodles. Kirkland unsalted butter is great for bulk baking, such as Christmas cookies and buttercream frosting. Vegan butter is suggested for baking for someone you dislike, as it doesn’t perform as well as traditional butter.

How should butter be stored to maintain freshness?

Butter can be stored on the counter using a butter bell, which keeps it fresh by preventing contact with air. However, in hot environments, it should be refrigerated to avoid rancidity. For long-term storage, butter can be frozen. If refrigerated, it should be kept in an airtight container to prevent absorption of strong odors from other foods.

What are the key takeaways from the butter taste test?

Key takeaways include the importance of grass-fed butter for superior flavor and texture, the unique qualities of cultured butter, and the value of European butters. The color of butter can indicate quality, with a rich yellow hue often coming from grass-fed cows. Vegan butters, while improved, still don’t fully replicate the performance of traditional butter.

Chapters
This chapter explores the factors that contribute to the quality of butter, focusing on the cow's diet (grass-fed vs. grain-fed), the butter-making process (cultured vs. non-cultured), and the resulting differences in flavor, texture, and color. It also discusses price variations and cost-effective options.
  • Grass-fed butter is superior due to beta-carotene in grass giving it richer color and flavor.
  • Cultured butter undergoes fermentation, resulting in a unique zing.
  • European butters generally have lower water content, making them richer and smoother.
  • Costco's Kirkland brand offers affordable high-quality options for both salted and unsalted butter.

Shownotes Transcript

Few ingredients are as loved (and villainized) as butter. We discuss how to pick a great butter, and the best ones for eating, cooking, and baking. 

 

Guest: Wirecutter staff writer Lesley Stockton

 

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Find edited transcripts for each episode here: The Wirecutter Show Podcast)