cover of episode 459. The Suit, Savile Row, and Smartly Dressed Men

459. The Suit, Savile Row, and Smartly Dressed Men

2024/6/9
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The Rest Is History

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Dominic
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Tom
参与航空教育和培训的播客主持人
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Tom: 本期节目探讨了西装的起源和演变,从14世纪的欧洲到现代社会,西装经历了从制服到时尚的转变,并深刻地反映了社会文化和阶级观念的变化。西装的起源可以追溯到14世纪,当时服装设计开始快速发展,但西装真正成型是在17世纪,在经历了英国内战和伦敦大火之后,查理二世为了提倡节俭和促进羊毛贸易,推行了一种新的服装设计,这便是西装的雏形。此后,西装与英国的政治、文化和社会发展紧密相连,它既是精英阶层的象征,也是社会变革的见证。在18世纪,西装风格在军队中流行,并逐渐传播到全国各地,成为一种体现体面和尊重的着装风格。在19世纪,随着大规模生产的发展,西装成为大众化的服装,并逐渐演变成全球商务场合的国际制服。 Dominic: 西装的演变也反映了男性服装中对越界的焦虑,以及男性和女性服装在社会功能和审美标准上的差异。与女性服装相比,男装在颜色和款式选择上受到更多限制,这可能是由于男性服装中存在对越界的焦虑。男性服装的设计更注重实用性,而女性服装则更注重美观。在不同的历史时期,西装的风格也反映了当时的社会风尚和价值观,例如,18世纪的“马卡罗尼”风格被认为是女性化和不爱国的象征,而丹迪主义则代表了对朴素消费的精致化。在现代社会,西装仍然在商务场合中扮演着重要的角色,但它也面临着来自休闲服装的挑战。

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"His clothes seemed to melt into each other with the perfection of their cut and the quiet harmony of their colour. Without a single point of emphasis, everything was distinguished"

The suit has long served as the official attire of men in Britain, Europe and the Western World. Traditionally the uniform of the elites and an indicator of class, its purpose and design has evolved over time. Notably, in the great sweep of clothing throughout human history - from the Roman toga to the ancient Egyptian shendyt - the suit is unusual for the way that it hugs the body, rather than hanging off it. What then is the origin of this most venerable of fashions? And why has it conventionally been so much more constrained and less flamboyant than women’s clothing? The genesis of the suit dates back to 14th century Latin Christendom, a period of rapid innovation and evolution in clothing, though in England its symbolic resonance emerged during the Civil War, when the style of one’s dress became emblematic of ideology. Remarkably, however, the exact moment of its invention is recorded when, in the wake of the Great Fire of London, fears for God’s wrath and the economy, saw Charles I announce the introduction of a new design for his nobles. From this moment onwards the suit has been woven into some of the great ideological movements, moments, and characters of history.

Join Tom and Dominic as they travel through the glamorous, colourful and often adventurous history of the suit. From Chaucer’s England and the Black Death, fashion feuds between Kings, through the Napoleonic Wars, into the Highwaymen and Pirates of the 18th century; Beau Brummell and the rise of the dandy, the macaronis and the fop, right into the illustrious origins of Savile Row, and some of the suit’s famous contemporary champions…

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