Eli Zabar wanted to create a place that sold the best quality products, regardless of price. He realized that to achieve this, he would have to do much of it himself, as the quality he desired wasn't readily available in America at the time.
Eli's initial philosophy was to find people who still did things the old way, focusing on bakers, pastries, and vegetables made in traditional methods. However, he quickly realized that these people no longer existed, forcing him to learn how to make these products himself.
Eli sources his flowers from Holland, where they are grown with hundreds of years of expertise, unlike the majority of flowers in New York City, which come from Colombia and South America.
Eli believes the secret to a great sandwich lies in proportion. The thickness of the bread, the amount of each ingredient, and how they are combined are crucial. He also emphasizes using high-quality, fresh ingredients and avoiding overpowering flavors.
Eli believes basil is too strong for both the tomato and the mozzarella, which would overpower the sandwich's flavors. He prefers to keep the ingredients simple and let each element shine on its own.
Eli Zabar was ahead of his time in promoting high-quality, simple ingredients. His influence can be seen in chefs like Ina Garten and shops like Eataly. He helped pave the way for the current trend of seeking the best ingredients and minimal processing in food.
Eli believes that there is a much larger population interested in food now, driven by media and TV. He notes that while there is more food knowledge and cultural blending, the essence of good food remains simple, as seen in Ina Garten's recipes.
Eli's favorite way to enjoy truffles is on toasted good country bread with lots of butter. He believes this is the easiest and most enjoyable way to appreciate truffles, as it highlights their flavor without complexity.
Eli Zabar is the youngest son of the Jewish grocery family behind the famed New York food emporium, Zabar’s. Fifty years ago, he left the family business to open his own shop, where he would pursue the “best”: the best breads, cheeses, jams. He was inspired by the markets of Europe and quickly realised that to get the quality he wanted in America, he would have to do a lot of it himself. Eli is now 81 years old, and over the decades, has watched the food scene catch up. Today, Lilah chases him around one of his markets on the Upper East Side, where they make a sandwich, explore what quality food means and reflect on how food culture has changed.
Lilah’s profile of Eli’s EAT restaurant is here: https://on.ft.com/4eKrSSj)
**The show is ending in early January. But we want to know your cultural questions! Write to Lilah **at [email protected]) or on Instagram @lilahrap). And – thank you.
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