cover of episode How Eli Zabar made America more gourmet

How Eli Zabar made America more gourmet

2024/11/25
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Life and Art from FT Weekend

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Eli Zabar
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Laila Raptopoulos
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Laila Raptopoulos: 本期节目讲述了Eli Zabar对美国美食文化,特别是纽约市美食文化发展所作出的贡献。他创立的EAT餐厅以及后来的Eli's Market,都体现了他对高品质食材和传统烹饪技法的追求。在过去几十年里,他见证了美国人对美食的品味变化,并通过自己的努力,推动了美国美食文化的进步。他与其他美食家的合作,也反映了美国美食文化的多元化发展。 Eli Zabar: 我创立EAT餐厅的初衷是寻找那些仍然坚持传统制作方法的食品生产者,但最终我发现几乎找不到这样的人。因此,我不得不自己学习制作面包、奶酪等各种食品。我的市场是一个生态系统,我们充分利用食材,减少浪费。制作美味三明治的关键在于食材比例的把握,要突出食材本身的味道,而非添加过多的配料。我鼓励顾客在购买前品尝食材,感受食材的新鲜和美味。我始终认为,餐厅应该以慷慨的态度对待顾客,提供充足的食物和良好的服务。 Eli Zabar: 我认为美国过去的食物文化中缺少一种慷慨和分享的精神,而我的餐厅则致力于改变这一点。我始终坚持使用最好的食材,即使这意味着价格会更高。我预见到了美国人对美食的品味变化,并为此做出了贡献。如今,更多的人对美食感兴趣,并且对美食的知识也更加丰富。虽然我曾经在美食领域领先于其他人,但现在更多的人赶上了我的步伐,这让我感到欣慰。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

Why did Eli Zabar decide to open his own food store in 1973?

Eli Zabar wanted to create a place that sold the best quality products, regardless of price. He realized that to achieve this, he would have to do much of it himself, as the quality he desired wasn't readily available in America at the time.

What was Eli Zabar's initial philosophy when he opened his first store, EAT?

Eli's initial philosophy was to find people who still did things the old way, focusing on bakers, pastries, and vegetables made in traditional methods. However, he quickly realized that these people no longer existed, forcing him to learn how to make these products himself.

How does Eli Zabar ensure the quality of the flowers in his market?

Eli sources his flowers from Holland, where they are grown with hundreds of years of expertise, unlike the majority of flowers in New York City, which come from Colombia and South America.

What is Eli Zabar's approach to making a great sandwich?

Eli believes the secret to a great sandwich lies in proportion. The thickness of the bread, the amount of each ingredient, and how they are combined are crucial. He also emphasizes using high-quality, fresh ingredients and avoiding overpowering flavors.

Why does Eli Zabar avoid using basil in his tomato and mozzarella sandwich?

Eli believes basil is too strong for both the tomato and the mozzarella, which would overpower the sandwich's flavors. He prefers to keep the ingredients simple and let each element shine on its own.

How has Eli Zabar influenced the current food culture in America?

Eli Zabar was ahead of his time in promoting high-quality, simple ingredients. His influence can be seen in chefs like Ina Garten and shops like Eataly. He helped pave the way for the current trend of seeking the best ingredients and minimal processing in food.

What does Eli Zabar think about the current state of American food tastes?

Eli believes that there is a much larger population interested in food now, driven by media and TV. He notes that while there is more food knowledge and cultural blending, the essence of good food remains simple, as seen in Ina Garten's recipes.

What is Eli Zabar's favorite way to enjoy truffles?

Eli's favorite way to enjoy truffles is on toasted good country bread with lots of butter. He believes this is the easiest and most enjoyable way to appreciate truffles, as it highlights their flavor without complexity.

Chapters
The host, Laila, announces the show's ending in early January and invites listeners to submit questions for a final episode. She expresses gratitude for the show's five-year run and encourages listeners to connect with her on Instagram or Substack.
  • Show ending in early January
  • Listeners encouraged to submit questions
  • Gratitude for five years of broadcasting

Shownotes Transcript

Eli Zabar is the youngest son of the Jewish grocery family behind the famed New York food emporium, Zabar’s. Fifty years ago, he left the family business to open his own shop, where he would pursue the “best”: the best breads, cheeses, jams. He was inspired by the markets of Europe and quickly realised that to get the quality he wanted in America, he would have to do a lot of it himself. Eli is now 81 years old, and over the decades, has watched the food scene catch up. Today, Lilah chases him around one of his markets on the Upper East Side, where they make a sandwich, explore what quality food means and reflect on how food culture has changed.


Lilah’s profile of Eli’s EAT restaurant is here: https://on.ft.com/4eKrSSj)


**The show is ending in early January. But we want to know your cultural questions! Write to Lilah **at [email protected]) or on Instagram @lilahrap). And – thank you.

Read a transcript of this episode on FT.com) Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy) for more information.