Row 7 Seed Company collaborates with breeders to develop new vegetables that prioritize flavor. They take seeds that are often rejected by the industry due to lack of a definable market and champion them, bringing them to produce aisles.
Chefs typically interact with farmers at farmers' markets, not breeders. Breeders, who are the architects of the food system, are usually in conversation with the industry, which prioritizes yield, storability, and shelf life over flavor.
Flavor is central to Dan Barber's philosophy. He believes that delicious vegetables grown from the right seed in the right soil are inherently good for the environment, health, and even democratic ideals. Hedonism and ethical farming are not separate but interconnected.
Agriculture is responsible for 33-35% of global greenhouse gas emissions, more than trains, planes, and automobiles combined. The current system often prioritizes monocultures and long-distance shipping, contributing to environmental degradation.
Row 7 Seed Company focuses on breeding and promoting vegetables for their flavor, making them appealing as center-of-plate dishes rather than sides. They aim to shift the narrative from vegetables as a punchline to vegetables as a source of pleasure and health.
The Badger Flame beet was bred by Erwin Goldman, an Orthodox Jew from Wisconsin, who created it to make beets more appealing to kids by reducing the geosmin compound that gives beets their earthy taste. It has become a popular variety among chefs and consumers.
Chefs are seen as ambassadors for good food, advocating for flavor and quality ingredients. They play a role in democratizing food experiences, making high-quality ingredients accessible to more people and influencing food culture beyond restaurants.
The Honey Nut Squash is a smaller butternut squash bred for flavor, developed through a collaboration between Dan Barber and a squash breeder. It started as a prototype in Barber's kitchen and is now widely available in stores like Walmart, Costco, and Whole Foods.
Barber thinks celery has been bred down to a point where it lacks flavor. He believes that by focusing on breeding, we could develop a celery variety that is more delicious and versatile in cooking.
Barber believes that certain lettuces, like Romaine, can be cooked to bring out their flavor. He has a dish at his restaurant that sautés salad greens as a way to end a meal cleanly and deliciously.
Today, Josh and Nicole are joined by Dan Barber, chef and co-owner of Family Meal & Stone Barns to discuss the logistics and possibilities of inventing new vegetables!
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