Deep Dive
Why was the 1973 Aconcagua expedition considered unusual?
The expedition was unusual because it included a diverse group of eight Americans, including a NASA engineer, a police officer, a doctor, a lawyer, and a woman, which was remarkable for the time. They were attempting the difficult Polish route, which had only been successfully completed by four other groups since 1934.
What were the key challenges faced by the climbers on Aconcagua?
The climbers faced extreme challenges, including navigating through fields of penitentes (ice formations up to six feet tall), dealing with altitude sickness, and the logistical nightmare of shuttling equipment up and down the mountain. The Polish route required scaling a 2,000-foot nearly vertical glacier, and the high altitude caused severe physical and mental strain.
What were the symptoms of altitude sickness experienced by the climbers?
Altitude sickness symptoms included headaches, fatigue, dizziness, sleep issues, vomiting, loss of coordination, mental fog, and heart palpitations. Severe cases could lead to fluid accumulation around the lungs or brain swelling, which could be fatal if not treated by descending to a lower altitude.
What were the circumstances surrounding John Cooper's death?
John Cooper was found dead on the mountain, initially thought to have frozen to death. However, an autopsy revealed he died from cranial contusions caused by blunt force trauma. He also had a deep, round wound in his abdomen, which was actively bleeding at the time of death.
What evidence suggested foul play in Janet Johnson's death?
Janet Johnson's body showed severe head trauma, with bone protruding from her nose, forehead, and chin. A rock was found on her face in an area with no other rocks, and her boot was sliced open in a manner suggesting it was cut with an axe. These injuries were inconsistent with a fall, leading investigators to suspect foul play.
What was the official cause of death for both John Cooper and Janet Johnson?
Both John Cooper and Janet Johnson were officially determined to have died from head trauma. Cooper's autopsy revealed cranial contusions, while Johnson's autopsy confirmed major head injuries. The nature of their injuries led investigators to suspect that their deaths were not accidental.
What role did high altitude psychosis play in the climbers' experiences?
High altitude psychosis, characterized by hallucinations and delusions, likely affected the climbers. Zeller and McMillan experienced auditory and visual hallucinations, and the extreme mental and physical strain could have led to irrational behavior. This condition may explain some of the inconsistencies in their accounts and the possibility of accidental harm.
What new evidence was discovered in 2020 related to Janet Johnson's death?
In 2020, Janet Johnson's camera and backpack were found in the melting Polish glacier. The developed film contained photos of the climb, including images of Johnson and her fellow climbers. While the photos confirmed much of the survivors' accounts, they did not provide new insights into the circumstances of her death.
Why was the investigation into the climbers' deaths never concluded?
The investigation was halted in 1976 when the Argentine military seized control of the government in a coup. The judge overseeing the case never issued a final ruling, leaving the deaths of John Cooper and Janet Johnson officially unresolved.
- Eight Americans attempted to summit Aconcagua via the Polish route.
- Three climbers descended due to altitude sickness.
- Petroski, exhibiting altitude sickness symptoms, descended with the guide.
- The remaining climbers chose to continue the ascent without a guide.