Everest '96: Trapped in the Death Zone | Mountain Madness | 1
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Doug Hansen grips the rope and pulls himself up a steep, snow-covered incline, one agonizing step at a time. He's near the back of a long line of mountain climbers. A freezing wind swirls around him, and the cold cuts through his layers of protective gear. Doug pauses, takes three breaths, and then keeps moving.

He's so close to the top. He can't stop now. The 45-year-old postal worker has been climbing mountains for 11 years now. And all that time, he's dreamt of being where he is right now, ascending the tallest mountain in the world. This is Everest. And if he can climb just 300 feet higher, he'll be standing on the summit. Doug can feel himself getting dizzy.

He's tall and lean and in excellent condition. But at 28,000 feet, the air has about a third of the oxygen he's used to. Despite the breathing mask he's wearing, his body is crying out for air. It wasn't easy for him to get here. He paid a hefty price to join this expedition led by a 34-year-old New Zealander named Rob Hall, a mountaineering legend who summited Everest four times.

To raise the $65,000 expedition fee, Doug worked the night shift at the post office so he could take on construction jobs during the day. He even took out a second mortgage on his Seattle home. But as he pulls himself up onto a small dome of ice, he knows it was all worth it. He's made it to the South Summit, not too far below the main summit of Everest.

Ahead of him, Doug can see a jagged, snow-covered ridge that winds a quarter of a mile up to a cliff known as the Hillary Step. And above the step, he can see the final slope leading up to the top. Doug steps forward, ready to continue his climb, until he sees Rob Hall approaching from the direction of the summit.

Rob lowers his mask and places his hands on Doug's shoulders. You've had a hell of a climb today, but we've run out of time. We won't make it to the top by 2 p.m., and we need to get back down before dark. Doug's heart sinks. But I'm almost there. I know I can pick up the pace if I... I'm making the call, Doug. We need to go back. I'm sorry. Doug gazes toward the summit again.

He's so close. But this is why he signed on with Rob Hall, for his track record and good judgment, especially up here where the thin air makes it hard to think straight. So Doug turns around and starts to descend. But with each step down, he feels a resolve growing inside him. If Doug ever gets another chance to climb Everest, he's taking it.

And next time, nothing will stop him from reaching the top. In our fast-paced, screen-filled world, it can be all too easy to lose that sense of imagination and wonder. If you're looking for new ways to ignite your creativity and open your mind to fresh perspectives, then let Audible be your guide. Whether you listen to stories, motivation, or any genre you love, Audible is the place for you.

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In 1852, surveyors identified a mountain in the Himalayas, on the border of Nepal and Tibet, as the tallest on Earth. That 29,000, 29-foot-tall peak, called Sagamarta by the Nepalese, would come to be known as Mount Everest.

When Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary first reached the summit in 1953, high-altitude climbing was only done by the most elite mountaineers. But the early 1990s saw the rise of commercial Everest expeditions, in which veteran climbers would lead less experienced clients to the top

in return for a substantial fee. No one brought more climbers to the summit than a celebrated New Zealander named Rob Hall. But in 1996, a promising new competitor arrived on the scene, an American climber named Scott Fisher. In May of '96, both Rob and Scott had assembled expeditions, with clients paying upwards of $65,000 each to be guided to the top of the world.

But what was supposed to be the adventure of a lifetime, instead turned into a desperate crisis on the highest reaches of the mountain. It would push all of them to the limits of their endurance and the brink of death. This is Episode 1, Mountain Madness.

Anatoly Bukhriev hands coins to a merchant in a bustling marketplace in Kathmandu and receives a steaming bowl of noodles in return. As he slurps down his dinner, Anatoly looks around and takes stock. It's October 1995, and the 37-year-old Russian climber is in Nepal's capital.

He loves the energy of the city, its beautiful temples, friendly people, and cheap and delicious street food. Anatoly is a renowned high-altitude mountaineer, and he's been here many times before. Given its proximity to the Himalayas, Kathmandu is a popular hub and gateway for those looking to reach the country's many high peaks.

A couple of weeks ago, Anatoly summited a nearby mountain called Dala Giri, the seventh highest peak on Earth. Not only did he set a new speed record, he made it to the top without using any supplemental oxygen. But that was just for sport. Now he's back in Kathmandu looking for guiding work. He glances across the narrow side street and spies a tall man in his late 30s perusing one of the stalls.

His long blonde hair is pulled back into a ponytail. Anatoly recognizes him immediately. Hello, Scott. Toly, what's up, man? Scott Fisher is a gregarious, intrepid mountaineer from America. Anatoly hasn't climbed with him before, but they know each other, and he's aware that Scott has climbed many of the world's most challenging peaks, including K2 and Everest, without oxygen.

As they stroll the market, Scott fills Anatoly in on his plans. He's here to secure a permit to climb Everest the following spring. Scott started an adventure company called Mountain Madness in 1984 and has since established himself as a successful guide.

He explains to Anatoly that it's his passion, but it's hardly profitable. He's turning 40 soon, and he wants to take his business to the next level, for his family and for himself.

Anatoly greets the news with some skepticism. Anatoly smiles.

Since 1990, Rob Hall and his company, Adventure Consultants, have brought a record 39 climbers to the summit of Everest. Scott may appear laid back, but Anatoly knows he has the skill, ambition, and charismatic personality to give Rob a run for his money. He even has a PR plan. I've been talking to John Krakauer from Outside Magazine about joining my group and writing an article about the expedition. It's almost a done deal.

Scott suddenly stops walking and turns to Anatoly. I'm looking for a lead guy, a legend like you, with two decades of high-altitude experience. What do you say? I appreciate that, but I already have an offer from another company for next spring. Scott flashes a smile. Come on, Toly. You're still a free agent. Whatever they're paying you, I'll double it. Anatoly thinks about it.

Since the collapse of the Soviet Union, funding for expeditions has dried up. He needs to make money, and a relationship with Mountain Madness could be very beneficial. He reaches out and shakes Scott's hand. It's a deal. Rob Hall strokes his beard while thumbing through a stack of papers. It's March 1996, and he is sitting in the window seat of a plane en route to Kathmandu.

He glances over at his colleague and good friend, Helen Wilton, who's seated beside him. The 39-year-old mother of four is returning to Everest with him for her third year as Adventure Consultant's Base Camp Manager. Helen, we'll need to update these numbers. I'm letting Krakauer join us for $10,000. Come on, Rob. That's a $55,000 discount. I know.

But to get Krakauer on our team, we had to beat Scott's offer. It'll be worth it. John Krakauer, a journalist from Seattle, will be joining Rob's expedition on behalf of Outside, the most popular outdoor adventure magazine. Krakauer had originally been slated to join Scott Fisher's expedition. But a few weeks ago, the editors reached out to Rob, hoping to strike a better deal.

Rob understands Helen's point, but he also knows he has to think big. He's proud of the business he's built. No one else on the mountain can compete with his track record.

But Scott Fisher is charming. He's connected. And he's a hell of a climber. If Rob wants to remain the gold standard for guided climbs on Everest, he knows he needs to work hard to stay ahead of the game. And it's not just his reputation that's at stake. He pulls a photo from his shirt pocket.

Helen leans over to take a look at it. "Is that the latest ultrasound?" "Yep. Only 15 weeks till she's due." "That's wonderful, Rob. You and Jan must be very excited." Rob smiles. He met his wife during an expedition to Everest back in 1990. Now the mountain will provide a future for their growing family. After he guides this group up, he'll fly home and welcome his new daughter to the world.

Beck Weathers raises his glass and takes a sip of beer. Seated across the table from him is Doug Hansen, a postal worker and divorced father of two. Doug is telling him about how close he was to the top of Everest last year.

It's March 30th, and Beck and Doug are at a gathering in the Garuda Hotel in Kathmandu.

Scattered around are six other clients of Adventure Consultants, plus expedition leader Rob Hall and his guides. At age 49, Beck has climbed the tallest peaks on six of the planet's seven continents, known as the Seven Summits. There's only one peak left: Everest. And tomorrow, they're setting off for it. Doug points to a small Japanese woman in her 40s on the other side of the room.

Have you met Yasuko? If she makes it to the top, she will be the oldest woman to ever summit Everest. Bec raises his glass. Incredible. Here's to making history. Bec surveys the faces gathered at the bar. The clients he's met so far are an interesting group. There's a publisher from Hong Kong, a lawyer from Michigan, and two other doctors from Australia and Canada. There's even a journalist who's writing about the expedition.

As different as they all are, Beck feels like he's among friends. He thinks about his comfortable life in Dallas, Texas with his wife, Peach, and their two kids. He makes a good living as a pathologist, and he knows he's fortunate, but a shadow hangs over him. For years, he has struggled with depression, and the only time he feels truly free of it is when he's climbing. It's more than a hobby. It's an obsession.

and he knows it's put a strain on his marriage, but he's not ready to give it up. A tall man in a Hawaiian shirt steps into the middle of the room and raises his hands over his head. It's Rob Hall. He introduces his guides, New Zealander Andy Harris and Australian Mike Groom, as well as his lead climbing Sherpa, Ang Dorje. Then Rob addresses the group.

Rob then explains how the next few weeks will go. Tomorrow, they'll fly to the Khumbu region in northeastern Nepal.

Then, over the next nine days, they'll trek across the mountains towards Everest Base Camp, allowing them to adjust to the rising elevation along the way. Base Camp will be their home for the following six weeks, as they train their bodies to withstand increasingly higher altitudes. We should be making our summit bid in five or six weeks from now. Are you ready for it? Beck claps his hands.

It sounds like the next few weeks will be brutal. He can't wait to get started. Lina Gamilgard hikes slowly up a rocky trail and looks around in awe. Despite feeling sluggish due to the lack of oxygen, she's overwhelmed by the towering snow-capped mountains surrounding her. She feels a spiritual connection to the Himalayas. Right now, she is where she's supposed to be.

It's April 8th, and for the last nine days, the 34-year-old Danish woman has been hiking through the Kambu Valley, along with the other members of the Mountain Madness Expedition, and a train of yaks loaded down with their supplies. Their destination, Everest Base Camp.

The roadless trail has taken them past historic villages, rushing waterfalls, and monuments dedicated to those who lost their lives attempting to climb the highest mountain in the world. Lena is aware that she's already climbing in the footsteps of legends. Everyone who comes to Everest has to take this journey.

If a person suddenly went from sea level to base camp at 17,600 feet, where the oxygen is 50% thinner, they would soon collapse and then hours later die. Lena feels a pat on her back and turns to see Scott Fisher, the expedition's leader, walking beside her.

Here we are. Are you ready to climb that big thing? Lina laughs and flexes an arm. I'm as ready as I'll ever be. I didn't bulk up for nothing. Lina met Scott Fisher in Nepal five years ago and immediately knew he was a kindred spirit. They developed a friendship, and she feels a deep sense of gratitude that he personally invited her to go on this trip. If she reaches the summit of Everest, she will be the first Scandinavian woman to do so.

Lena hails from Copenhagen, where she's worked as a lawyer, a drug counselor, and even a sailor. Twelve years ago, one of her brothers was killed in a motorcycle accident. And since then, she's committed herself to living life to the fullest. Nothing has satisfied that desire more than climbing. Lena elbows Scott and gestures toward a client, rapidly snapping photos.

It's Sandy Hill Pittman, a wealthy New York socialite who's covering the expedition on behalf of NBC Interactive Media. Apparently she paid for extra yaks to carry all of her equipment, including cameras, multiple laptops, and an espresso machine. Lena rolls her eyes. Is it really necessary for her to bring all that stuff? Scott lowers his voice to a whisper.

Lena shrugs. Sandy may be a little much, but she respects her tenacity. She knows that Sandy has logged some significant climbs, including two previous attempts at Everest.

Moments later, Lena makes her way up to the top of a long slope. At last, she sees Base Camp, her new home for the next six weeks. It's a sprawling city of over 300 tents spread out across a rocky terrain. She turns to Scott, who is still hiking alongside her.

There's so many people here. Yep, over 20 teams are trying for the top this season. Good thing it's a big mountain, right? Lena laughs. She knew Everest had become more popular, but it's another thing to witness it firsthand. However, May is always the busiest time of year at base camp. These few weeks between winter and monsoon season are when temperatures are warmer and the high altitude winds decrease.

This weather window is when climbers have the highest chance of summiting. Lina's eyes travel beyond camp towards the iconic Kambu Icefall, a majestic river of ice that flows two miles down from a valley above. Despite her toughness, Lina is humbled by the power of the mountain, the goddess of the sky, and hopes to be capable of scaling her sacred heights.

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Head over to Symbiotica.com and use code ODDS for 20% off and free shipping on your subscription order. John Krakauer gazes down into a wide crevasse a few inches from his feet. He tries to guess how deep it is. 100 feet? 200? There's really no way of knowing. The 42-year-old journalist can't see the bottom. It's early in the morning on April 13th.

Krakauer and other members of Rob Hall's expedition are standing on a steep slope of glacial ice. They are on their first acclimatization climb, traversing the Khambu Icefall, the most technically demanding section on the entire Everest route. It's a maze of giant moving ice blocks, known as seracs, some as big as office buildings.

Krakauer exhales nervously. There's only one way across this crevasse. Four long aluminum ladders have been lashed together end to end with rope and laid horizontally across the 50-foot gap. Everyone is clipped into a fixed rope that extends from the bottom of the icefall to the top. Still, Krakauer has to admit he's pretty damn scared.

He's never tiptoed across a ladder in crampons before. But he's grateful there's at least a way over. Krakauer has done his research. The path through the icefall and all of the ladders and ropes were laid out days ago by an expert team of Sherpas known as ice doctors. It's extremely dangerous work,

Summoning Everest would be impossible without the logistical expertise and physical support of Sherpas as guides, porters, and cooks. The Sherpa people, a small Tibetan ethnic group from the Khumbu region, have been specializing in this work since foreign expeditions first began. Their local economy is now inextricably tied to the influx of Everest climbers and trekkers, for better or for worse.

Krakauer looks across the crevasse and sees Rob Hall waving to him. "All right, John, take your time and step carefully." Krakauer takes a deep breath and steps onto the makeshift bridge, willing himself forward from one rung to the next. He's almost across when an explosive rumble fills his ears.

Turning his head, he sees no more than 50 yards to his left, a huge tower of ice crashing down into pieces. Rob Hall reaches out, grabs Krakauer's hand, and pulls him to safety. Krakauer breathes a sigh of relief. He's spent much of his adult life climbing, but this is his first time in the legendary Himalayas. It's strenuous and terrifying, but he's never felt more exhilarated.

When he first received the assignment from Outside Magazine, Krakauer told himself he would be going mainly as a journalist to write about the increasing commercialization of Everest. He told his wife that he'd probably climb just a little above base camp, but she knew better. In truth, he wants to climb the mountain as badly as everyone else, all the way to the top.

Beck Weathers taps his feet nervously as he sits in the adventure consultant's mess tent at base camp. It's the afternoon of May 5th, and Rob Hall has called a meeting of the team. Beck is hoping to hear some good news. Rob enters the tent, and the chatter dies down. All right, everyone. I've met with the other expedition leaders, and we've set up a schedule to avoid crowding on the Summit Ridge.

Tomorrow, we start out for the top. This is exactly what Beck was hoping to hear. It's been almost a month since they arrived in base camp and began their altitude training, climbing up and down the mountain from camp to camp several times, always pushing a little higher. Beck listens as Rob lays out the plan. Tomorrow morning, May 6th, they'll begin a five-day climb towards the summit.

They'll spend two nights in Camp 2 at over 21,000 feet and one night at Camp 3, perched high on a narrow ledge of ice, another half mile up. By the afternoon of May 9th, they should arrive at Camp 4, located at 26,000 feet. That night, if all goes well, they'll leave for the summit before midnight, with the goal of reaching the top before the following afternoon.

Rob grins as he surveys the excited faces of his team. "We should be summiting five days from now. May 10th. My lucky day." Beck smiles. He's heard that of the four times Rob has reached the summit, two of them were on May 10th. He leans forward as Rob continues to explain what's ahead. "Scott Fisher's team will also be sharing our summit date. We might be first up there this spring.

If that's the case, Sherpas from both our teams will share the task of fixing safety ropes on the more difficult sections near the top. Beck shifts in his seat. His time on the mountain has been tougher than he expected. The altitude has affected everyone's appetite and he's lost over 20 pounds since arriving. But he knows the training has made him stronger.

The air here at base camp now seems filled with oxygen compared to the camps above. Rob asks for everyone's attention one more time. "I've said this before and I'll say it again. Once we make our final push for the summit, I need you all to follow my direction. Remember, 2:00 p.m. is our turnaround time. Any idiot can get up this mountain. The trick is getting back down alive."

2 p.m. Do I make myself clear? Copy that. Got it. Clear. All right, then. Let's do this. Beck stands and heads for his tent. He's grateful to have a leader like Rob, and he's ready to follow him to the top. Scott Fisher stares down a flat glacial valley known as the Western Coombe. It's early in the afternoon on May 6th, and he sees some of his clients coming up to where he is at Camp 2.

This morning, his clients began their five-day summit push. They've made their way through the treacherous icefall, and now Scott is cheering them on as they arrive at camp. Looking good, team. Remember, it's not the altitude, it's the attitude. Woo! Thanks, Scott. Scott glances at his watch. He's keeping close tabs on how fast his clients are moving. So far, they're looking good, and he wants them to know it.

But while he's encouraging his clients to have fun, secretly, he's been struggling to keep his own spirits up. Unlike Rob, Scott encourages his clients to climb at their own pace. But because of this, he's had to make a number of unplanned trips between camps to help members of his team and escort them down.

He's tired. And on top of this, he's been having gastro issues and is taking antibiotics. He's looking forward to resting for the remainder of the day. He sees Lena Gamilgard approaching. Her expression is not one of excitement. It's stern and serious. "Scott, can we talk?" "Sure, what's up?"

Lena shares some troubling news. One of his clients, a longtime friend of his named Dale Cruz, has come down with a splitting headache and is resting in a tent a few miles down the coom in Camp 1. Dale can't handle this altitude.

I think he's having a relapse. Scott rubs his forehead. Over a week ago, Dale came down with high-altitude cerebral edema, where fluid leaks from oxygen-starved blood vessels in the brain. If Dale is having a relapse, Scott knows he must be brought to a lower altitude fast, or he could fall into a coma and die. All right, let's go.

I'll go break the news to Dale that his trip is over, and then get him back to base camp. Scott, are you sure? You should be conserving your energy, not rushing up and down. Can't someone else go? He's my friend, Lena. And besides, I have no idea where Anatoly is right now. Scott closes his eyes and does his best to summon what energy he has left. Then he sets off for the long hike back to Camp 1.

Anatoly Bukriev accelerates his pace. It's May 8th. After a brief delay this morning due to high winds, both teams from Mountain Madness and Adventure Consultants set off from Camp 2, the second leg of their climb to the summit. He is on a section of the route known as the Lotsee Face. It's a 4,000-foot steep icy slope that requires climbers to clip into a fixed rope.

Without this lifeline, even a minor slip could send a person tumbling to their death. Anatoly is alone, way out in front of the rest of his team. Two days ago, Scott reprimanded him for not assisting the clients enough, but he strongly disagrees with that approach. Anatoly has 20 years of experience in the Himalayas, and he knows that to thrive at high altitude, you have to be self-reliant.

You have to be aware of your reserves of energy and pace yourself. If he pampers the clients too much, they'll stop trusting their own instincts, and that could lead to disaster. Instead of shadowing the clients, he wants to get out ahead of them and make sure that Camp 3 is ready for when they arrive.

Anatoly has been questioning the readiness of some of his climbers, but they at least look in better shape than Rob Hall's clients, who he passed today, even though he departed late. He's concerned about the two teams joining up on summit day. Hopefully Rob's team won't slow them down.

As Anatoly continues to climb toward Camp 3, he sees some climbers coming down the fixed rope. As they cross paths, he recognizes an old acquaintance, the American high-altitude mountaineer Ed Visters. He's with a film crew, shooting a documentary for IMAX.

Anatoly is surprised to hear that. The weather's calm where they're standing, but he knows that conditions can change quickly at higher elevations. Ed wishes him luck and continues his descent.

As Anatoly trudges upward, he wonders if the time is right for Scott and Rob to be making their summit bid. Rob Hall inches down the fixed rope on the Lhotse base. His climbers at the back of the line are moving slowly, and he wants to check on them. It's late in the afternoon of May 8th, and Rob and his team are around halfway up the ice wall, just below Camp 3.

As he reaches the back, Rob sees Doug Hansen bent over, fighting to restrain his coughing. Yasuka Namba, with her tiny frame, seems to be struggling under the weight of her pack. Rob calls out to them. "We're almost there. Just go slow and easy. Breathe and move. Breathe and move." Doug and Yasuko both give a thumbs up, and Rob turns back up the hill to keep climbing.

When he set off from base camp a few days ago, he thought everyone on his team was capable of reaching the summit. Now, he's not so sure. Doug has been sick and isn't climbing well. Yasuko seems exhausted. Everyone's dealing with the effects of altitude: dehydration, indigestion, headaches. He hopes his clients can rally, not just because he wants them all to reach their goal,

He knows that potential customers will take note of how many people he gets to the top this year, especially after he failed to get anyone to the summit in '95. Suddenly, Rob hears a rumbling sound and a commotion from the team up ahead of him. A boulder the size of a suitcase is tumbling down from the cliffs above. Within seconds, the boulder slams into the chest of Andy Harris, one of Rob's guides.

Andy is knocked off his feet in an instant. He begins to slide, but is caught by the fixed rope he's attached to. Rob rushes up the slope and kneels next to him. Are you okay? Andy's eyes are open, but he's struggling to speak. I'm all right. I think I just got the wind knocked out of me. Rob tugs on his safety harness. Glad you had this on. You'd be at the bottom by now.

He helps Andy to his feet and calls out to the team. He's all right, everyone. We'll be at Camp 3 within the hour. Remember, breathe and move. And watch out for falling rocks. Rob lets out a sigh as his team resumes their march upward. He hopes everyone can get some rest tonight. They'll need every bit of energy they can muster if they're going to make it to the top.

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It's May 9th. Beck and the rest of the Adventure Consultants team are headed for Camp 4 at 26,000 feet. The plan is to rest there and then later tonight head for the summit. In the three days since leaving base camp, Beck's climbed over a mile and a half in elevation and every muscle in his body is feeling it.

He couldn't sleep at Camp 3 due to the altitude, and he's struggling to get used to the breathing mask he's wearing. But there's another issue that's at the front of his mind: he can barely see. A year and a half ago, Beck had cornea surgery to correct his vision, and the high altitude seems to be aggravating his eyes and affecting his vision. So far, no one seems to notice. At least he can still see the ground.

As long as he places his feet in the footprints in front of him, he believes he can continue. Others on his team are struggling too, but nobody's turned around yet. And even though he can barely see, Beck isn't ready to be the first. He decides to keep climbing and keep his secret to himself. Lapsang Jangbu Sherpa strains as he fights to pull the nylon material to the ground.

He's working with his team of Sherpas to anchor a tent, but the wind is raging with the force of a hurricane. Together on three. One, two, three. Finally, they wrestle the tent down so it can be fastened into the cold, rocky surface at Camp 4. Lapsang sits on the ground.

fighting for breath in the thin air. It's early afternoon on May 9th, and he's on the South Call, a flat, desolate plateau about the size of four football fields. At 26,000 feet above sea level, it marks the entrance to the death zone.

It's called that because oxygen levels are not high enough to sustain human life. And while you're in it, your body is dying. If you stay at this elevation more than a few days, even with supplemental oxygen, the body will shut down. Lop Sang is the lead climbing Sherpa for Scott Fisher's Mountain Madness team. They'll be arriving here shortly to rest before making their bid for the summit later tonight. He needs to make sure everything's ready for them.

But he's feeling sick. Lopsang turns over on his hands and knees and vomits into the rocks beneath him. No big deal. Just another day on the job. Though he has to admit, he is feeling extra tired from carrying Sandy Hill Pittman's 80-pound pack, filled with the communications gear she needs for her internet reports. It's a heavy load. But he knows it's important to Scott that she get to the top.

Lapsang started working on the mountain just three years ago when he was 20, but he quickly developed a reputation as a strong and gifted climber. He's worked with several expedition leaders, but there's no one he loves more than Scott Fisher. To Lapsang, he's more than a boss. He's a mentor and a friend.

Lopsang even wears his long black hair in a ponytail like Scott, as well as three gold earrings, one for every time he's summited Everest. Lopsang feels like working for Scott is an investment in his future. Scott's told him on multiple occasions that he has big plans for him as Mountain Madness continues to grow.

As Lopsang struggles to get back on his feet in the raging wind, he sees his colleague, Anatoly Bukraev, coming over to help. Lopsang calls out to him. Do you think we're going to head up tonight? Anatoly looks up toward the summit. I don't know. The weather is clearly not good. I would choose calm, foul weather over wind like this any day.

Lopsang nods. Like most Sherpas, Lopsang is a devout Buddhist, and Everest is more than a job or something to conquer. To him, the mountain is God, a holy power to be respected and revered. With wind this fierce, he wonders if Sagamarta is trying to send a message. I agree, Tully. Something's not right.

Anatoly shivers. Scott's not here yet. I will talk to Rob. Lopsang and Anatoly grip the edges of a tent and continue battling the 60-mile-per-hour wind. Lopsang has stood at the entrance of the death zone three times before, but he's never seen it like this. Rob Hall sips hot tea as he huddles inside his tent at Camp 4. It's 6.30 p.m.,

and the wind outside is still blowing so hard his tent is in danger of collapsing. He closes his eyes and thinks about his wife and the baby on the way. Then he takes a deep breath and tries to focus best he can. It's hard to concentrate at this altitude and he has a big decision to make. All eight of his clients have made it to the south call.

They're exhausted, but Rob believes that once adrenaline kicks in, most of them have a shot of reaching the summit. But he's also heard some of them say the weather is making them nervous. Anatoly from Scott's team told him the same thing. He gets it. If the wind continues to rage like this, it would be way too dangerous to keep climbing.

They could wait another day, but the weather forecast from base camp is showing a storm moving in on May 11th. If they waited a third day at Camp 4, they'd be extending their time in the death zone. Rob knows that's way too risky. They could retreat to a lower camp, but they'd still have to coordinate with other expeditions to avoid overcrowding near the summit.

On top of that, his clients would have to climb the Lhotse face again. And it doesn't seem like many of them would be up to that challenge. A cold reality dawns on him. If they don't depart for the summit tonight, they probably won't get another chance. Rob hears a rustling at the front of his tent. The doorway zips open, and a man staggers inside. It's Scott Fisher.

Rob is aware that Scott had to escort one of his clients all the way back to base camp a couple of days ago. He looks totally cooked.

The two expedition leaders weigh their options. They agree it would be insane to keep climbing if the wind doesn't let up, but neither can imagine a scenario where they'll get another opportunity to reach the top. Let's just see how it's looking at 10 o'clock. If it calms down, we get ready to head out at 11:30.

Scott gives a thumbs up. I'll follow your lead, man. Now please excuse me while I pass out. Rob laughs as Scott stumbles out of the tent and into the windstorm. Then he lies back in his sleeping bag. If this is the end of the road for their expedition, he wonders how Krakauer's article will turn out. Rob closes his eyes and hopes the wind dies out. Lena Gamilgard sits upright in her tent.

He's been trying to sleep while a gale blasted through the south call. But something's changed. It's become quiet. Lena listens closer. She can hear a buzz of excited chatter from the tents around her. Lena unzips her tent and steps outside. The evening is peaceful and still.

The clouds that descended on the call a few hours ago are gone, revealing a night sky ablaze with more stars than she's ever seen before. Lena sees Scott Fisher approaching. "Settle up! We're leaving in 90 minutes. Are you ready?" Lena looks up at the mountain and nods. Scott pats her on the back. As he walks away, Lena can't help but smile.

She would prefer more stable conditions, but this is the boldness that's brought Scott to the summit before, and she admires it. She continues to fix her gaze on the mountain. The mother goddess is extending an invitation for her to come closer, and Lena decides to accept it. She returns to her tent to prepare her gear. Never in her life has she felt more ready to climb.

This is the first episode of our four-part series, Everest 96, Trapped in the Death Zone.

A quick note about our scenes. In most cases, we can't know exactly what was said, but everything is based on historical research. If you'd like to learn more about this event, we recommend the books Into Thin Air by John Krakauer, The Climb, Tragic Ambitions on Everest,

by Anatoly Bukhriev and G. Weston DeWalt, and Left 4 Dead, My Journey Home from Everest by Beck Weathers. I'm your host, Cassie DePeckel. Matt Olmos wrote this episode. Our editor is Alyssa Adams. Sound design by Joe Richardson. Audio engineer is Sergio Enriquez. Coordinating producer is Desi Blaylock, produced by Alita Rozanski and Emily Frost. Managing producer is Matt Gantt.

Senior Managing Producer is Ryan Lohr. Senior Producer is Rachel Matlow. Executive Producers are Jenny Lara Beckman, Stephanie Jens, Marshall Louis, and Erin O'Flaherty for Wondery.

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