cover of episode The History of the Tomato (Encore)

The History of the Tomato (Encore)

2025/1/12
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专注于电动车和能源领域的播客主持人和内容创作者。
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@主持人 : 番茄,这种如今风靡全球的食材,其历史却充满了戏剧性转折。从几百年前鲜为人知,甚至被误认为有毒,到如今成为众多国际美食的基础,番茄的旅程令人叹为观止。 番茄的起源可以追溯到南美洲西海岸,最初可能只有浆果大小。在公元前500年左右,玛雅人可能已经开始在墨西哥南部种植番茄,并培育出各种颜色、质地和形状的品种。然而,我们对这段时期的番茄种植和用途知之甚少,因为缺乏相关的历史记录。 西班牙人征服美洲后,番茄才被欧洲人所知晓。方济各会修士贝尔纳迪诺·德·萨贡是首批记录阿兹特克人使用番茄的欧洲人之一。他在1540年代记录了墨西哥城特诺奇提特兰市场上各种各样的番茄品种和番茄酱,其中包括红、黄、绿等不同颜色的番茄,以及各种以番茄为基础的酱料。 征服者埃尔南·科尔特斯将番茄带回西班牙,标志着番茄在欧洲的首次出现。1544年,意大利植物学家皮耶特罗·安德烈亚·马蒂奥利首次对番茄进行了记录,将其描述为一种新型的红或金色茄子。西班牙人将番茄种植传播到世界各地,包括亚洲,特别是菲律宾。英文单词“tomato”就来源于西班牙语“tomate”,而西班牙语则来源于阿兹特克语“tomatl”。 然而,由于番茄与茄科植物颠茄(一种剧毒植物)同属,欧洲人长期以来对番茄敬而远之,将其视为有毒植物。这种误解部分源于当时上层阶级使用的锡器皿中含有铅,而番茄的酸性会溶解铅,导致铅中毒。因此,番茄在16-17世纪的欧洲主要作为观赏植物种植。 直到1692年,那不勒斯出版的食谱才首次提及番茄食谱。番茄经由英国传入北美。18世纪,番茄逐渐被欧洲和美国人接受,并开始融入当地菜系。番茄酱的出现更是促成了那不勒斯比萨的诞生。19世纪,随着越来越多的人食用番茄及其制品,人们逐渐认识到之前的谣言是错误的,番茄被认为是安全的。 然而,即使番茄的声誉得到改善,19世纪30年代,纽约出现的番茄虫又一度引发人们对番茄安全的担忧。尽管如此,番茄食谱在19世纪初迅速传播,番茄消费量也随之增加。番茄的使用也扩展到北非和中东,迅速成为当地菜系的主食。番茄经历了彻底的品牌重塑,从被认为危险到健康。甚至还出现了番茄药丸作为保健品出售。 番茄之所以如此受欢迎,部分原因在于其易于种植,适应各种气候。然而,大规模种植番茄仍然存在挑战。植物学家亚历山大·利文斯顿的贡献解决了部分问题。19世纪后期,番茄酱和番茄汤的商业化生产进一步促进了番茄的普及。20世纪初,加利福尼亚州中部成为重要的番茄产区,番茄研究也取得了重大进展。20世纪50年代后期,番茄品种改良使得机械化收割成为可能。 现代番茄品种改良注重产量和易于收割,但牺牲了部分口感,因此传统品种再次受到关注。番茄适合温室种植,水培番茄产业正在兴起。如今,番茄是仅次于马铃薯的世界第二大受欢迎的烹饪蔬菜。全球番茄收成价值约1970亿美元,产量近1.9亿公吨。中国、印度、土耳其和美国是世界最大的番茄生产国。番茄不仅是意大利菜的主食,也广泛应用于世界各地的菜肴中,包括墨西哥、摩洛哥,甚至一些中国菜肴。番茄相关的调味品,如番茄酱和莎莎酱,在全球也非常受欢迎,并衍生出独特的番茄节庆活动,例如西班牙瓦伦西亚的西红柿大战。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

Why were tomatoes initially feared as poisonous in Europe?

Tomatoes were feared as poisonous in Europe due to their association with the nightshade family, which includes deadly plants like belladonna. Additionally, the acidic nature of tomatoes leached lead from pewter plates used by the upper class, leading to lead poisoning, which was mistakenly attributed to the tomatoes themselves.

Where did tomatoes originate, and how did they spread globally?

Tomatoes are believed to have originated in the coastal region of western South America, including modern-day Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and northern Chile. They were domesticated in southern Mexico around 500 BC by the Maya people. The Spanish, particularly Hernan Cortes, introduced tomatoes to Europe in the 1520s, and from there, they spread to Asia via Spanish colonies like the Philippines. The English word 'tomato' comes from the Spanish 'tomate,' derived from the Aztec word 'tomatl.'

What role did tomatoes play in the development of pizza?

Tomato sauce was a key ingredient that transformed flatbread dishes into what we now recognize as pizza in Naples, Italy. The introduction of tomatoes to Italian cuisine in the 18th century allowed for the creation of tomato-based sauces, which became a defining feature of pizza.

How did tomatoes become a staple in global cuisines?

Tomatoes became a global staple due to their versatility, ease of cultivation in various climates, and their ability to enhance flavors in diverse dishes. They spread through Spanish colonization, reaching Asia, Europe, and North America. By the 19th century, tomatoes were widely accepted and integrated into cuisines worldwide, from Italian pasta sauces to Mexican salsas and Moroccan tagines.

What technological advancements improved tomato cultivation in the 20th century?

In the 20th century, advancements like the development of thicker-skinned tomato varieties by Jack Hanna in the 1950s allowed for mechanical harvesting. Additionally, large-scale production in central California, aided by dry conditions that prevented fungal growth, and genetic research by Charles Rick, who identified wild tomato varietals resistant to pests, significantly improved tomato cultivation.

Why are heritage tomato varietals regaining popularity?

Heritage tomato varietals are regaining popularity because modern commercial tomatoes were bred for traits like durability and ease of harvest, often at the expense of flavor. Heritage tomatoes, which are grown for taste rather than commercial efficiency, offer a richer and more authentic flavor, leading to a resurgence in their cultivation.

What is the economic significance of tomatoes today?

Tomatoes are a major global crop, with an annual harvest worth approximately $197 billion, producing nearly 190 million metric tons. They are the second most popular culinary vegetable worldwide, after potatoes. Major producers include China, India, Turkey, and the United States. Tomatoes are also central to popular condiments like ketchup and salsa, further boosting their economic importance.

Chapters
The American pronunciation of "tomato" is used in this podcast. The tomato is botanically a fruit because it contains seeds, but culinarily it is often considered a vegetable.
  • American pronunciation of tomato is used.
  • Tomato is botanically a fruit (seed-bearing).
  • Culinary use often classifies it as a vegetable.

Shownotes Transcript

One of the most popular foods in the world is tomatoes. 

Tomatoes are grown almost everywhere in the world today, and they have become the basis of several international cuisines. 

However, just a few hundred years ago, very few people were eating tomatoes as we know them today.

In fact, even after they were cultivated, there were people terrified to actually eat them.

Learn more about tomatoes and tomatoes and their history on this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily.

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