Cultural appropriation in food occurs when dishes or cuisines from communities of color are flattened, diluted, ripped off, or exploited for profit, typically by individuals not from those communities. It involves a lack of acknowledgment, involvement, or compensation for the original creators and often fails to credit the cuisines, regions, or people from which inspiration is taken.
Yen Bui started the campaign to support Vietnamese-owned businesses that were negatively impacted by the trademarking of 'pho' by a British-owned restaurant chain. She was motivated by her parents' experience as Vietnamese immigrants running a restaurant in Germany and wanted to protect Vietnamese cultural heritage from exploitation.
The campaign received overwhelmingly positive support, with 99.9% of the comments being supportive. Many people joined the campaign to challenge the trademark, which Yen found empowering and validating. However, a small percentage of critics argued that the restaurant chain was simply better at business or that the ownership's ethnicity shouldn't matter.
The Pho restaurant chain apologized and stated they would not pursue legal action against other businesses using the word 'pho.' They clarified that their intention was to pay tribute to Vietnam's national dish and emphasized that 'pho' belongs to the people of Vietnam. They also noted that over 50 other UK restaurants have trademarks using the word.
Using a trademarked name without permission can result in fines, imprisonment, or both, depending on the context. Trademarks are legally protected to prevent unauthorized use or association with a brand. However, fair use arguments, such as comparative advertising, may apply in some cases, though these exceptions vary by country.
Yen Bui discussed the need for regulations to protect cultural heritage, such as Vietnamese dishes like pho, bánh mì, and bún chả, as well as traditional attire like the áo dài. The conversation focused on intellectual property processes in the UK and internationally to safeguard cultural assets from exploitation.
A campaign on TikTok recently started a fresh conversation about cultural appropriation of food. It started when content creator Yen Bui, who now lives in London, highlighted that a British-owned restaurant chain called Pho had trademarked the name of the Vietnamese national dish a while ago, which limited the rights of other restaurant owners to use the word in their names because they could have faced legal action. Yen Bui tells us why she started the campaign, and why it matters to so many.
What is cultural appropriation of food? US-based content creator Kim Pham explains. And the BBC’s Charlotte Edwards talks us through how and why trade marks are used in food in the first place.
Instagram: @bbcwhatintheworld Email: [email protected] WhatsApp: +44 0330 12 33 22 6 Presenter: William Lee Adams Producers: Mora Morrison and Hayley Clarke Editor: Verity Wilde