cover of episode EP.64 naze naze - 慢慢织布,慢慢联结

EP.64 naze naze - 慢慢织布,慢慢联结

2025/1/6
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@刘城铭 :naze naze项目始于2015年,最初是与北京当代艺术基金会和素然旗下Clickly品牌合作,旨在帮助独龙族妇女,后发展成为独立品牌。我们注重与人的合作,而非单纯的商业模式,希望通过高品质的产品和真诚的沟通,与织女建立长期稳定的合作关系,并尊重她们的生活节奏,将织布融入她们的日常生活。我们通过每年出版的刊物和举办展览等方式,与消费者互动,分享项目进展和细节信息,并邀请织女参与设计,共同提升产品设计水平。我们希望naze naze能够长期存在,为织女和消费者提供一个共同成长的环境。 @郦宣烨 :我最初被naze naze项目的文化属性吸引,后来才深入了解其产品的设计理念和制作工艺。naze naze避免过度强调手工和文化,更注重产品的实用性和商业性,让产品更容易被大众接受。我们注重产品的高完成度和商品属性,使其具备实用价值,更容易被消费者接受。naze naze的产品设计偏向基础和简洁,注重品质和细节,使其更易于融入日常生活中。我们尊重织女的生活节奏,将织布时间与她们的农事活动等结合,不影响她们的日常生活。我们关注织女个人的发展和成长,并了解她们的家庭情况和生活状况,以更好地支持她们。naze naze的合作模式是尊重织女的想法,在不打扰她们生活的前提下,帮助她们改善生活,并支持她们的个人发展。我们通过互动性强的展览,让更多人体验“慢慢来”的感受,并希望传递一种轻松、轻盈的品牌形象,而非沉重或纯粹向善的印象。 @金春花 :作为naze naze独龙江项目的生产管理员,我积极参与项目,并负责管理沙线品控和监督生产进度。参与naze naze项目改变了我的生活,让我变得更加独立自信。在独龙江,织布是妇女们日常生活中的一部分,我们会根据自己的时间和需要来进行织布。naze naze项目参与者是通过口碑传播,互相带动,逐渐增多的。在公司支部的时候,我们放线的时候会有很多很多的姐妹一起在那里排线,那个时候我们会聊天,开玩笑,有什么好笑的事情在那里说说笑笑,其实挺好的,这样很开心。 @碧玉花 :在独龙江,织布是一件很日常的事情,下雨了或是农闲了,坐下来就织个布,家里缺什么了也可以自己织布给家里添上。织女们的生活丰富多彩,织布只是她们生活中的一部分,她们还有其他的工作和生活方式。

Deep Dive

Key Insights

What is the significance of the 'Weaving for Family' weaving competition organized by naze naze?

The 'Weaving for Family' competition, held in 2024, was the fourth edition of naze naze's weaving competition. It brought together weavers from four regions: Dulongjiang, Dali, Eya Naxi Township, and Menglian. The theme encouraged weavers to create textiles for their families, fostering personal connections and cultural exchange. The competition also allowed weavers to travel, interact, and showcase their work, with winning pieces displayed in naze naze stores.

How did naze naze start and what is its mission?

naze naze began in 2015 as a collaboration between Clickly (a sustainable brand under Zuczug) and the Beijing Contemporary Art Foundation. Initially focused on supporting Dulong women in Yunnan, the project aimed to preserve traditional weaving while creating sustainable livelihoods. The mission expanded to connect rural weavers with urban consumers, promoting cultural exchange and sustainable practices. Profits support the weavers and local communities, ensuring the project's longevity.

What are the key products offered by naze naze?

naze naze offers a range of products made from handwoven textiles, including blankets, pillows, cloaks, shawls, and scarves. These items are crafted by weavers from Dulongjiang, Dali, and Eya Naxi Township. The products are designed to be practical and durable, blending traditional techniques with modern aesthetics to suit contemporary lifestyles.

How does naze naze ensure the sustainability of its projects?

naze naze ensures sustainability by fostering long-term relationships with weavers and communities. The brand provides training, fair wages, and opportunities for weavers to participate in product design. It also adapts production schedules to align with local agricultural cycles, ensuring weaving complements rather than disrupts daily life. Additionally, naze naze reinvests profits into the communities and maintains transparency through annual publications and exhibitions.

What role does the Dulong blanket play in naze naze's history?

The Dulong blanket, traditionally used as both clothing and bedding by the Dulong people, was the foundation of naze naze's early projects. The introduction of colorful yarns in the 1950s transformed the blankets into vibrant textiles, earning the Dulong people the nickname 'weavers of rainbows.' naze naze's initial products were based on these blankets, which remain a key part of their offerings.

How has naze naze expanded its reach beyond Dulongjiang?

naze naze expanded its projects to Dali Dong Village, Eya Naxi Township, and Menglian Xinyang Wa Village, regions that also preserve traditional weaving techniques. The brand builds trust with local communities, gradually increasing participation. For example, the number of weavers in Dulongjiang grew from 16 in 2015 to over 200 by 2024, driven by word-of-mouth and community support.

What is the significance of the annual home visits conducted by naze naze?

Annual home visits allow naze naze to understand weavers' lives, income structures, and feedback on the project. These visits help tailor production schedules to local agricultural cycles and ensure fair compensation. They also strengthen trust and collaboration between the brand and the weavers, fostering a sustainable and mutually beneficial relationship.

How does naze naze balance tradition and modernity in its products?

naze naze blends traditional weaving techniques with modern design to create functional, everyday items. The brand uses soft wool and cotton yarns instead of traditional hemp, and adjusts color palettes to suit urban tastes. This approach ensures the products are both culturally rooted and relevant to contemporary lifestyles.

What impact has naze naze had on the lives of the weavers?

naze naze has significantly improved weavers' lives by providing stable income and opportunities for personal growth. For example, weavers' average earnings increased from 1,750 yuan in 2015 to 3,922 yuan in recent years. Many weavers have gained confidence, learned new skills, and even traveled to cities like Shanghai for training, broadening their horizons.

How does naze naze engage with the broader public beyond its products?

naze naze engages the public through exhibitions, publications, and interactive events. The brand's annual publications document project progress and feature weavers' stories, while exhibitions showcase the cultural and artistic value of weaving. Interactive workshops, such as those in Chengdu, allow visitors to experience weaving firsthand, fostering a deeper connection to the craft.

Chapters
2024年,naze naze 举办了第四届织布大赛,主题为“为家人织一块布”,来自独龙江、普尔孟连、俄亚纳西乡和大利侗寨的281位织女参赛。大赛评选出了各地前30名作品,并在naze naze店铺进行展出,最终评选出最受欢迎奖。织布大赛促进了织女间的交流,也让更多人参与到织布中。
  • 第四届织布大赛主题为“为家人织一块布”
  • 281位织女参赛,来自四个地区
  • 最终评选出最受欢迎奖

Shownotes Transcript

naze naze 取自独龙语 “naze naze jora”,意思是“慢慢地织布”。作为素然旗下的织物品牌,naze naze着眼于在文化生活中与纺织息息相关的女性,通过织女的持续协作、署名化的生产方式,连接乡村与城市生活的日常,增进人与人的相互了解。所得收益用于支持项目可持续发展,以及回馈织女和当地社群。2015年,naze naze 项目首先在独龙江开展,并逐渐扩展到其他还保有传统编织技艺的地区:大利侗寨、俄亚纳西乡和孟连信岗佤族村落。2024年,naze naze 举办了第四届织布大赛,题为“为家人织一块布”,以此为契机让更多的人参与织布这件事。

本期是Slow Brand与naze naze共同制作的特别企划,通过与品牌团队和织女们的对话,探索 naze naze 如何链接一群人,做好织布这件事。

00:18 一场跨越千里的聚会
01:55 “为家人织一块布”的织布大赛
04:35 naze naze 是什么?
07:30 独立于素然之外的共益实践
09:00 始于独龙毯的缘分
11:09 走进日常的naze naze产品
14:53 从独龙江到大利、俄亚和孟连
17:35 织女“花姐”的故事
19:27 有来有往的合作模式
21:35 与生活息息相关的织布节奏
26:23 口口相传,一起进步
29:24 织女“玉花姐”的故事
32:17 探索纺织传统与城市生活结合的可能性
38:40 让更多的人参与进来
45:32 像日记本的刊物,与大众互动的展览
53:21 naze naze是一群人
59:56 naze naze是一件事

|访谈嘉宾|
刘城铭 naza naze 品牌主理人
郦宣烨 naze naze 品牌内容负责人
金春花 独龙江项目生产管理员
碧玉花 独龙江项目社区空间管理员

音频剪辑:Cookie
内容采编:Yucci,Yingying,Tian
旁白:Yingying
图片素材来源:naze naze